You can admire Porto’s unbelievably beautiful churches and sights, but it’s the people and their courage that truly touch your heart.
I, too, was moved by the stories I learned in Porto. These stories range from the ordinary desire to bring something, anything, to the world to the extraordinary achievements.
Eat
Bolhão Market
Across the street from the magnificent Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas) is Bolhão Market, where the people bring the city to life every day.
Our hotel, Bessa Hotel Baixa, was very close to the market, which was both a blessing and a curse because we could never pass it by.
The market has an avalanche of temptations, and its inviting tasting options were impossible to resist.
We started with several tiny pastries and espresso shots in different flavors, then sampled cheeses, seafood, meats, nuts, and exotic sweets.
Some vendors eagerly talked about their process and the unimaginable number of variables they manage to keep their businesses afloat when nothing is guaranteed.
We admired not only the produce they offered but also their unwavering ambition and perseverance.
Meet
Of course, the next morning we could not skip the Market. But this time we went up the stairs to the market’s upper level to check out art by local artists and craftsmen.
“Ten minutes!” I promised my husband and pointed to the gallery upstairs. He nodded, but we both knew that ten minutes was a lie.
As we moved from one stall to another, I noticed several interesting displays, but one caught my full attention.
TRAMA_CLUB
The artwork looked like a departure from the usual touristy trivia. The subjects, forms, and colors still reflected Portuguese themes, yet they felt original and daring. As I admired funky cups, I noticed a colorful print of a man with an accordion.
The geometric forms made the artwork feel modern, while the colors pointed to the Portuguese tradition. Quite literally, his head was “lost” in the musical trance. He practically had sparks getting out of his head. The artwork was fresh and original.
At one point, I even started talking to the people around me like a crazy lady.
“Look,“ I pointed to the image, “Isn’t this fun? You can’t miss it!”
Obviously, I would have stayed longer with my ridiculous marketing campaign, but my husband kept pulling on my arm, so I finally left after buying the print.
Then it occurred to me.
“I met him in Madeira!” The accordion follows me everywhere!”
The Man from Odessa
I remembered that during our Madeira stay we met a street musician playing the accordion.
Something about his weathered look was familiar, so when he greeted me in Russian, I wasn’t surprised.
“ How do you know I understand Russian?” I asked.
“ That’s because Russian is the only language I know.” He admitted matter-of-factly. “ I sit here, and if they answer me, then I talk!”
It turned out he was from my hometown, Odessa. Without much talking, we became an instant band as he hit a few notes from Odessa’s iconic songs. We were both singing with enthusiasm.
I only stopped when I noticed tourists trying to pin a euro to my bag.
The Man with the Skyscraper
In Madeira, I met another colorful accordion player at the Eira do Serrado viewpoint.
He looked as though he had stepped straight out of a fairy tale. With his enormous beard and wonderfully theatrical hat, a skyscraper of international flags, he was both ridiculous and entertaining. He told me he was always there. After all, this was his office. And what an office!
Laurear Restaurant
Since I was in my element at the Market enjoying simple pleasures of traditional Portuguese food, I wanted to find a similar restaurant for dinner.
Apparently, Porto has a whopping number of restaurants on every corner. Most are small, family-owned places tucked inside buildings. Sometimes a narrow entrance door is easy to miss, since it looks like someone’s home.
Laurear restaurant was one of those places, a tiny, narrow single room that seats just eighteen people. The whole family ran the operation, and mothers, grandmothers, and aunts cooked every dish.
We didn’t have reservations. The owner furrowed her brow apologetically and shook her head from side to side.
“ So sorry, but we are booked solid,” she said. “ Please do come tomorrow! I can put your names in right now!”
The next day we had dinner there, and it was worth the wait.
The waitress was friendly and open to chatting. She explained their process and the ingredients they use, and she recommended a dish for every course.
She simply asked, “What are you in the mood for?”
I thought that question alone was one of the main ingredients of their success!
Instantly, I felt as if I was visiting my aunt. I can only imagine how much work and persistence it takes to keep Laurear so popular!
Repeat
I doubt I could find another accordionist in Porto like the one in Madeira, but Porto is full of surprises. You can see trees split in half, one side mirroring the other; a bookstore looks better faux than real; a bridge that serves as a monument.
In truth, the latter stirred my curiosity. And here is why:
Maria Pia Bridge (Ponte de D. Maria Pia)
Curiously, Gustave Eiffel and partner Théophile Seyrig designed the Maria Pia Bridge in 1877, roughly ten years before the Eiffel Tower in Paris. With its longest single arch span of 160 meters, it was the world’s longest at that time.
From a distance, the bridge looked elegant, light, and lacy. Up close, the complex iron latticework was striking.
Ten years later, Eiffel and his company used similar daring latticework engineering methods to design the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
Then our tour guide pointed to Eiffel’s nameplate on the bridge.
“See? No other tour guide in Porto will show you this!”
We nodded politely and said nothing.
“Now that’s daring,” I thought.
So, what do our tour guide, an elderly street musician, and one of the world’s most celebrated engineers have in common?
Absolutely nothing.
Except, perhaps, the confidence and passion to do things their own way.
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