Back home, after my trip to Portugal, I scrolled through my phone, showing my daughter photos and telling stories.
Then she asked:
“So, where was your favorite hotel? “
“In Lisbon,” I said tentatively.
“We stayed in six great hotels within two weeks, so it’s hard to say.”
Then, a little hesitantly, I added :
“ You know, a strange thing about hotels is that you may forget the details and what they looked like, but you will remember how you felt there. And I felt very happy at Heritage Avenida Liberdade in Lisbon.”
“That’s interesting. Tell me more.” She raised her eyebrow with curiosity.
The Arrival
“ We arrived at five o’clock in the morning on a Sunday. Lisbon was fast asleep; even the cats were silent. I took a deep breath and rang the hotel bell. A tall young guy opened the door, half polite, half irritated. He escorted us into the lobby, offered tea, and immediately tucked away the luggage without us asking.
“Mom, you mean you didn’t tell them you were coming at a crazy hour?” (She was in charge of my personal growth again.)
“Of course, I informed the receptionist that we were arriving late. But the last time I came home at five in the morning on a Sunday, I was twenty-one, and I’d just returned from a club! By the way, the space felt more like a private club than a hotel lobby. So inviting!
I was too tired and sleepy to focus on the interior, which I usually do at a new hotel. Nevertheless, with my eyes half closed, I tried a couple of chairs (I don’t know why) and finally relaxed on a settee with my tea.
The Facade
Soon, the darkness outside lifted, revealing the golden glow of the trees on Avenida Liberdade through the hotel’s large windows.
Outside, all the colors suddenly came to life, as if in a kaleidoscope.
The powder blue of the facade, the soft beige of the limestone-framed windows, and the black of the iron balconies took my breath away. The balconies looked especially lacy and poetic. I wanted to see them up close.
The History
The building was originally constructed soon after the earthquake of 1755. It had a ground floor, mezzanine, noble floor, and garret. Two more floors were added in 1897.
Over the years, it changed owners and functions, and then it stayed as a herb shop- Ervanaria Hermetica for a long time, starting in the late 19th century.
Finally, when it became a hotel, it needed a new life.
Major parts of the building were preserved during renovations around 2007 and 2023. Miguel Câncio Martins and his firm led the renovations. They did all they could to keep the precious old elements. At the same time, they artfully wove modern design into every area.
The main feature of the hotel is the reception counter – a booth that was transformed from the former herb shop. The counter with its little drawers was also fully restored. I imagined opening them to find some rare herbs or ointments. Unfortunately, they were behind the glass!
The Interior
Only later that day, when we checked in at the “pharmacy,” did I fully take in the interior and its unique features.
Apparently, my doctor-husband felt at ease with the herb shop setup when he asked for a “prescription” for his room. He was tired and wanted to go and finally relax.
The Exploration
Meanwhile, I lagged behind.
I examined everything, touched everything, stared at everything.
You don’t get to experience unpretentious comfort within the walls of a cherished house every day!
As I ran my hand over the blue-and-white Pombaline tiles in the lobby, I felt someone watching me with suspicion. Did they think that I might pry one off the wall and put it in my purse? Only later did I learn that stealing azulejos from Lisbon buildings is a real problem.
Then I noticed a bronze monkey candleholder and examined large, fantastic installations “growing” within lush greenery. My eye followed the ceiling’s geometric lines until I felt a bit dizzy.
The Elevator
Inside the elevator, the floor mimicked Lisbon’s Calçada Portuguesa, the famous mosaic pavement. The elevator door had calligraphic writing. Sensing that it might be meaningful poetry, I downloaded its English translation.
One of the poems especially resonated with me:
It’s attributed to Saint-Exupéry, 1940:
“Lisbon… a kind of paradise, bright and sad.”
The Room
When we finally made it into the room, my husband sighed with relief:
“Ahhh! That’s it. The door is closed!”
He disappeared under the buttery soft sheets. Later, he said the sheets we had at home felt like sandpaper by comparison.
I tiptoed to open the curtains.
And there it was!
One of those lovely balconies I’d admired from the street!
The iron lace looked much more intricate up close. And the view of Avenida Liberdade was even more fabulous!
The bathroom held a dramatic iron mirror that echoed the railing. The crackled tile, installed at slight angles, felt simple and luxurious at once. The blue tile motif at the top of the mirror had a recognizable Portuguese vibe.
The Feeling of Peace
In short, the harmony of all the details put together gave me a feeling of peace. It was one of those places where you pause and breathe slower.
At breakfast, we wanted to linger, enjoy the generous variety of fresh food and coffee. Again, that area was very inviting with its playful Portuguese ceramic pottery.
The next day was my birthday. This trip was a gift in itself, more than I hoped for.
And yet, a surprise arrived in the afternoon – a bottle of Portuguese port wine from the hotel!
“How did you know it was my birthday!?” I asked in delight.
“ We pay attention, ma’am. Happy Birthday!”
The Spa
To top it all off, they let us use their spa after checkout.
“Another treat?” I wondered, feeling totally spoiled.
“Oh, spa!” my daughter said. They have a spa?
“Yes, they do.” I showed her photos.
My Humble Prescription
Heritage Avenida Liberdade became a place where I felt at ease and got inspired to learn more about Lisbon. The historic counter, the poetry on the elevator door, the Portuguese tiles, or azulejos, the balconies – all of them made me want to explore Lisbon further.
I also liked the modern elements. The lighting was very pretty. The tree-shaped columns coexisted beautifully with real plants surrounding them. The bright ceramic vases of different shapes looked young and fresh! The playfulness of the modern elements felt like I had permission to relax and play for a while.
I would have stayed longer than two nights, but we had other reservations lined up. So, if you decide to go, perhaps plan for a longer stay.
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