Developing an appetite with strenuous exercise before dinner
When I hear, “Let’s explore restaurants in Lisbon,” I never worry about gaining an ounce.
Lisbon is steep, and not many restaurants are taxi-accessible, so Bolt usually drops you off on an impossibly steep, almost vertical street. Then you get an elliptical workout as you fantasize about the reward—a delicious dinner.
Before I made reservations, I read about Suba, so I knew it was up high on the hill. But the reviews and photos were too intriguing
Only after climbing for twenty minutes did my excitement start to wear off. Well, at least I didn’t have a suitcase, unlike in Venice.
“Where is this place?” I asked no one in particular, but puzzled my husband.
Here? No. There? No. He murmured something in return.
If there were any signs or graffiti saying “Suba,” they were mysteriously hidden from view.
“If this is a game, where are the clues?”
Desperate, I barged into a hotel nearby and bluntly asked the guy at reception if he knew anything about Suba, the restaurant.
“Well, yes,” he said, smiling. “Everyone comes here first. It seems to be a secret restaurant. This way, please.” Obediently, I followed him outside like a golden retriever follows its owner.
A pretty vestibule with a sign that read “Lisbon Club 55” appeared.
“No, that’s not it,” I protested into the vestibule. “I am looking for Suba, and I am hungry!”
“No worries, ma’am,” a voice said from somewhere inside. “This is Suba. You are at the right place.”
Perhaps “Suba” was the right password to enter Lisbon Club 55, because they finally escorted us in.
The ambience
The interior opened into a mysterious, very noir room. A warm glow of candles in oversized candelabra felt glamorous and a bit naughty.
“Perhaps, if they are so good with candles, they might have a tiny one for my birthday cake,” I thought. I was craving birthday cake.
Light and shadows, smooth surfaces, and the textured vaulted ceiling felt simultaneously modern and Old World. Everything promised that more surprises were yet to come.
The game continues
After just one drink, I noticed that the print of Girl with a Pearl Earring in front of me was upside down. Then I closed one eye, and it turned right side up.
A bottle of Louis XIII cognac sat in front of it as a reminder of what happens to those who drink expensive liquor 🙂
Now I was really curious if my drink order had been lost in translation and I had drunk something that made me see things.
At that moment, the waitress must have sensed I needed comfort because she instantly brought the famous toy—Lisbon tram #28! Not only that! On top of the tram was a wooden box with chips. Oh, great! They know something about playing games. First, you are in shock, then you get something lovely to calm your nerves! Chips, toys—I am happy!
The meals
As I was happily rolling the cute tram back and forth on the table, the menu arrived. The listed options had wonderful names: Casa (Home), Familia, Nostalgia, Hideaway.
How creative and homey!
No wonder. The chef, Fábio Alves, is from Trás-os-Montes, a very beautiful but cold part of Portugal famous for olive oil and its lush countryside.
After we ordered, another surprise awaited.
This time, the waitress left us speechless as she presented Home—a welcoming installation that looked like a terrarium. It was a square glass container with a lid. The lid opened dramatically as steam or smoke billowed out, revealing pine branches and pine cones inside. It was very imaginative. But why pines?
The waiter explained that the chef also gains inspiration from Ukrainian culture. Aaaa! Now we were right at home, recognizing our Ukrainian pine trees. At that moment, I sneaked a glance inside to see if this amazing art piece also contained food.
And yes, it did!
Of course, it took a more discerning eye to spot small pieces of alheira, salt cod, and tomato. And then she brought cornbread, Easter loaf, and olives.
Then they brought a plate of seashells with a tiny piece of something that was supposed to be edible. But honestly, it looked more like a sample of Portuguese geology than food.
As soon as the geology landed on the table, the waitress announced that the tram needed to go.
“Nope,” I said. “Please don’t take away the tram. I’d rather give up the geology than my now-beloved toy.”
I bonded with it. Even after the chips were gone, it was dear to me.
For the entrée, I ordered Familia, and my husband ordered Vitela.
Familia is peixe da costa, a coastal fish dish with millet and razor clam. Again, the presentation was dreamy. The fish appeared on a giant textured plate, beautifully garnished.
Vitela is veal with potato and truffle.
Both were extraordinary!
And the cake!
With that delicious chocolate sphere with berries, I felt like a spoiled kid on my birthday. And it was much more than a kid’s portion! That’s a surprise worth all of them combined! The birthday cake with candles was so good that I even let go of the toy tram 🙂
Even if I gained an ounce or two, it was worth it. Besides, Lisbon will not let you down. Literally. There are always heights to climb.
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